Some emails cause our hearts to skip a few beats.

Checking in from our cross-country road trip. We stopped by a lake in Colorado a couple of days ago to take the PT11 out for a sail and noticed something very alarming... The back seat buoyancy tanks have bowed - like the air in the tanks expanded. They have returned to the normal shape again, but the fiberglass strips on the tank joints probably couldn't handle the pressure and have cracked - see pictures attached.

Mirte-tanks-blogThis boat was built at sea level in NYC and the tanks were expanded at roughly 10,000ft. The good news is that they did not explode nor do they appear structurally compromised, thanks to wood/epoxy as a construction method.

Most of our clients have used their boats near where they built them but others have taken their boats from sea level proximity to higher altitude lakes. (These two videos are thanks to Randy and Kim Kerr)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jdLN_QaQrv4. Ross Lake (1,519 ft)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LJV8MJJv6pU&t. Chilko Lake (3,845ft)

Randy replied to my inquiry about his lake trips: "We've never really taken our PT11 higher than 4000' and didn't notice any bulging in the buoyancy tanks personally.  I could imaging customers that span 10K feet in altitude difference could easily see bulging or compressing."

basic air pressure illustration
basic air pressure illustration

Because Russell and I initially imagined our boat builders using their PT 11 dinghies primarily for ocean cruising, the influence of high altitude on the air buoyancy tanks simply did not come up but once in 15 years. That customer installed a relief valve but we never heard exactly what type or how well it worked. We imagined that as a one-off but we are also under the constraints of the USCG rules that prohibit access ports or any compromise of a sealed air tank if it is to be counted as buoyancy. Hence we moved on.

Times are changing however, and it appears that more PT 11s are on road trips and out lake sailing so, it seems prudent to address the air pressure question for anyone planning altitude differentials of more than 4-5000ft with their PT 11 or SPEAR dinghies.

There is an argument for drilling a 1/4" hole on the vertical face of each of the three air buoyancy tanks and filling them with thickened epoxy. (This keeps moisture from reaching raw wood.) If you then notice any expansion at altitude, you have a safe spot to drill a very tiny hole to relieve pressure. The hole could then be taped over until the boat was back at its normal altitude when the new hole could be filled. You would have to choose a time and place with a stable temperature to fill these holes.  In an emergency, go ahead and drill tiny holes to keep damage from occurring. Just know that refilling those holes in a way that keeps the wood dry will be important.

One builder currently working on his PT 11 is planning to use it almost exclusively on mountain lakes and had already researched the pressure valve question before I reached out to ask about it. Have you heard of Gortex Dots? He has generously shared his in depth research and conclusions in this PDF article. An Idea for the Vented Volume Dilemma

The standard rule should still be noted for air buoyancy tanks: no access ports or compromise of the seal unless you plan to fill the voids with flotation foam. These dedicated air tanks (forward of the mast step and the aft seat boxes) are not intended as storage and using them as such could present a serious safety risk if you flood the boat. If you truly need to modify the design to fit your intended use, how you manage that is your responsibility, so be informed, do your own research,  and think 'safety first'.

 

Russell and all of our design consultants have a lot of experience with wood and epoxy boat building and a lot of thought and science went into making sure our boats are designed to be both light and strong. No boat is indestructible of course, but please consider carefully any modifications and feel free to consult us if you have concerns based on your planned use of the boat. We may not have a full time tech line but we do try to be available for customer concerns.
There are lots of ways to personalize your boat but please do not attempt to alter the structure. Also, a well built Pt 11 is a valuable boat and modifications could negatively affect resale value.

Boat building is a creative process. With our kits, it may be said the Russell has thought of 'everything' and thus, the margin for builder inventiveness is limited. I beg to differ and I have great faith in each person's ability to creatively personalize their boats! It is also our hope that the building experience in itself serves the creative spirit well and the end result is a boat that makes the builder proud and happy. It is difficult to make guarantees, and especially so if any part of the design and/or the described building method, is omitted or modified.
In reference to some questions we have received ;
Flotation vs Storage;  about the PT 11: The three compartments, one in the bow and the two in the stern, are completely sealed flotation and have the same value as foam flotation in this type of boat. If access ports to flotation compartments are installed, equal foam flotation would then be required to replace the sealed air. This would be a lot of work and totally pointless. Trying to use designated flotation compartments as storage can be dangerous if the boat flips or floods. On the PT 11 & Spear, there is a large storage aft of the mast step with ample space and the PT Skiff has 3 separate storage areas. We had to calculate flotation for the PT11, the non nesting PT SPEAR, and the PT SKIFF in order to satisfy the USCG safety guidelines. It is the builder's responsibility to abide by those rules, and, it is just plain smart.

Re-enforcements; Any additional wood or glass than what is prescribed in the manual, serves to add weight and will not necessarily make the boat any stronger than designed. Our boats are already designed with heavier glass on the bottom and solid fiberglass caps on the skegs for added toughness. If it is expected that the dinghy will be typically dragged over rough landings rather than carried, one could beef up the fiberglass on the bottom further, but it will add weight.
The transom, as designed, is strong. The rudder is a kick up rudder so there should be no chance of ripping off the transom of the boat with this rudder. If you plan to use a small outboard, (max 2HP) you would use bearing strips on the outside and clamp pads on the inside.
Builder resources; Our PT 11 family is growing. This is very exciting for us as we are a small company of just Russell and myself. Even more exciting is that our customers have been building beautiful boats! This year, 2013, we  established a registry of sorts (see the map) as an owner/builder resource and aim to create an interactive community. (see our Builder  Center page) The questions, comments, shared experiences of each builder are all welcome material that I will look forward to adding to the blog for others to learn from and enjoy.  Our heartfelt thanks to our customers, followers, and friends who share their opinions and enthusiasm about our products. We would not be here without you.

PTW Ashlyn

Every time Russell has a boat to build, he seeks better ways of doing things. In this case, a simplified method for gluing the puzzle joints revealed itself. The manual for the PT 11 'Spear' has this section but earlier versions of the PT 11 nesting dinghy manuals have an earlier method. I have created a pdf file of the 7 page replacement for pages 7 through 14 in "Building the PT Eleven" for those who have an older version and have not yet begun to build their boat. This may also be interesting to anyone building a stitch and glue kit with puzzle joints. Click  HERE to download the .pdf file.  (533kb)ptwatercraft.com

MARCH 29th, 2010

Weighing in lighter than expected at 340LBS.

3 coats
3 coats

PTS_painting

MARCH 08, 2010

Following are pictures of the hull glassed and the final gloss coat finished. We are ready to paint the hull this week.

Skeg detail
Skeg detail

DSC04218

DSC04234

DSC04247

FEBRUARY 18, 2010

A bunch of good friends showed up to turn the skiff over. Thank you!

ptskiff_turnover

February 14th, 2010

Happy Valentines Day World.

Progress as of today.. All inside structure and finish work is complete. We are ready to turn the boat over and glass the bottom.

Inside structure and finish work complete

PT Skiff prototype 2 Feb. 13, 2010
PT Skiff prototype 2 Feb. 13, 2010

Pt Skiff forward interior bright finishedPT Skiff close up on forward & upper coamings finishedPt Skiff front deck

PT Skiff afte area finished
PT Skiff prototype 2
PT Skiff prototype 2
Inside structure and finish work complete

January 25th, 2010!

I know! I know! I am getting slack with blog posting! Well, dang... It is not like there hasn't been a whole lot happening!

Today I am posting a shot of the CNC cutting that happened on the  15th and a couple of shots of the recent final coating of the inside of the PT SKIFF. We have decided to keep it clear coated as this boat is our showpiece and people have really loved the clear finish. Further, the construction techniques are clearly visible and it helps people get a good picture of how the boat went together. So here goes...

Turn Point Designs in Port Townsend cutting a kit on the 5 axis CNC macine.
Turn Point Designs in Port Townsend cutting a kit on the 5 axis CNC macine.
Russell tipping the final coat of epoxy in.
Russell tipping the final coat of epoxy.
The inside is completely coated now. Next we will finsh the side decks and upper combings, turn the boat over and finsh the outside.
The inside is completely coated now. Next we will finish the side decks and upper coamings, turn the boat over and finish the outside.

Paste this YouTube link into your address bar to see a brief clip of the coating..  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nGyaVfV-yeo

JANUARY 1st, 2010!

Happy 2010 to all! We are back online again ...

Combings being installed for hatches in middle and forward seats.
Combings being installed for hatches in middle and forward seats.

hatch_combing2

glued
glued
finshed combing on the forward seat.
finshed combing on the forward seat.
Water tank lid, console & driver's seat, forward sole in...
Water tank lid, console & driver's seat, forward sole in...

All 3 seat tops ready for final installation. Almost all surfaces have been glassed and are ready for the final gloss coat of epoxy.

Foredeck framing & foredeck are installed next with the boat upright in the cradle.
Foredeck framing & foredeck are installed next with the boat upright in the cradle.

Cheers for now...AE

DECEMBER 28th, 2009

HOPE EVERYONE HAS ENJOYED THIS LAST WEEK! I know we have not updated recently but that does not mean progress has not been made between entertaining friends and family and being entertained. We will be uploading new photos shortly of the console and drivers seat in and the forward floor in and more. Wishing all a HAPPY NEW YEAR and may 2010 be a positive year for you!

DECEMBER 20, 2009

Inside of the water ballast tank and under the grates finished.
Inside of the water ballast tank and under the grates finished.

DECEMBER 8, 2009

This past week we finished glassing the chines and have been making the patterns for, and cutting the lumber parts for this boat and at least 5 more kits. Pictured below are the glue-cleats placed near their positions.

glue-cleat mock up
glue-cleat mock up

DECEMBER 2nd, 2009

Filleting and taping the chines..

All inside structure gets welded together with fillets. This goes very quickly with our "patented" technique.
All inside structure gets welded together with fillets. This goes very quickly with our "patented" technique.
Filleted...
Filleted...
Taping the chines.
Taping the chines. A blank of fiberglass is wet out on plastic, cut into strips & applied like this.
Peel ply goes over the glass.
Peel ply goes over the glass.

NOVEMBER 24th

Gluing down side-decks
Gluing down side-decks
tipping on edge for injecting chine seams with epoxy
tipping on edge for injecting chine seams with epoxy
Extension screwed to cradle that allows the boat to stand on edge at a good height for finishing inside
Extension screwed to cradle that allows the boat to stand on edge at a good height for finishing inside
Ready for fillets and chine taping
Ready for fillets and chine taping

NOVEMBER 23

New pictures and more to come.

gluing up side deck combings
Side decks trial fit

ptskiff_sidedecks2_blog

NOVEMBER 16th,

Progress is being made! The next set of pictures shows aligning the stem, topside panels and sheer clamps, transom inwhales and side decks prep.

This photo taken whe aligning and gluing the stem. Note the white string.
This photo taken whe aligning and gluing the stem. Note the white string.
This photo and the next show topside panels and shear clamps. The funny looking thing on the transom is a temporary former.
This photo and the next show topside panels and sheer clamps. The funny looking thing on the transom is a temporary former.

1890_blog

Side decks and combings being pre-finished
Side decks and combings being pre-finished
Transom inwhale being glued up.
Transom inwhale being glued up.

Updates are happening weekly so please keep checking. We could easily be twice as far but the manual is specific and comprehensive and all will no doubt agree, worth the time taken to create it. Cheers..AE

November 10th

Over the last couple of weeks, we have made a lot of progress even though we are working on the builder’s manual more than the boat.
Pre-finishing parts is a large part of the job in the beginning of building this boat.  This stage goes really fast on the bench and means very little finish work later.
The assembly goes really quickly thanks to the tongues and slots.  Here are some pictures of where we are to date and we will post more in the next few days.

Fill coating hull panels
Fill coating hull panels
Hull panels assembled and their inside surfaces glassed and coated.
Hull panels assembled and their inside surfaces glassed and coated.Frames 1 thru 10 pre-glassed or double coated
Beginning of hull assembly in cradle
Beginning of hull assembly in cradle
All these parts fit in their designated locations with tongues and slots in a very short amount of time
All these parts fit in their designated locations with tongues and slots in a very short amount of time
3rd panel in place. Cradle legs here are shortened after all parts are locked in place with a thin bead of epoxy in all joints
3rd panel in place. Cradle legs here are shortened after all parts are locked in place with a thin bead of epoxy in all joints
Another view...
Another view...

November 1st.

Pre-finishing parts is done and the cradles are ready. This first week of November will see the skiff get wired together.We have been able to refine much of the building technique with this skiff so that the manual reads better and your building experience will be easier.

Pre-finishing is the first part of building the PT Skiff.

Building has begun. See here all the ply parts cut.

Freshly cut parts arranged on the shop floor.
117 parts, 12 sheets of plywood and they all fit so far...