The Winter Solstice is always a special day here in the PNW where the days have been increasingly short and too often gray, dark, and cold. Russell and I send warm season's greetings to all and to ever brighter days going forward.
So many winter celebrations to honor so we wish everyone Happy Holidays in all the ways you hope for.
Checking in from our cross-country road trip. We stopped by a lake in Colorado a couple of days ago to take the PT11 out for a sail and noticed something very alarming... The back seat buoyancy tanks have bowed - like the air in the tanks expanded. They have returned to the normal shape again, but the fiberglass strips on the tank joints probably couldn't handle the pressure and have cracked - see pictures attached.
This boat was built at sea level in NYC and the tanks were expanded at roughly 10,000ft. The good news is that they did not explode nor do they appear structurally compromised, thanks to wood/epoxy as a construction method.
Most of our clients have used their boats near where they built them but others have taken their boats from sea level proximity to higher altitude lakes. (These two videos are thanks to Randy and Kim Kerr)
Randy replied to my inquiry about his lake trips: "We've never really taken our PT11 higher than 4000' and didn't notice any bulging in the buoyancy tanks personally. I could imaging customers that span 10K feet in altitude difference could easily see bulging or compressing."
Because Russell and I initially imagined our boat builders using their PT 11 dinghies primarily for ocean cruising, the influence of high altitude on the air buoyancy tanks simply did not come up but once in 15 years. That customer installed a relief valve but we never heard exactly what type or how well it worked. We imagined that as a one-off but we are also under the constraints of the USCG rules that prohibit access ports or any compromise of a sealed air tank if it is to be counted as buoyancy. Hence we moved on.
Times are changing however, and it appears that more PT 11s are on road trips and out lake sailing so, it seems prudent to address the air pressure question for anyone planning altitude differentials of more than 4-5000ft with their PT 11 or SPEAR dinghies.
There is an argument for drilling a 1/4" hole on the vertical face of each of the three air buoyancy tanks and filling them with thickened epoxy. (This keeps moisture from reaching raw wood.) If you then notice any expansion at altitude, you have a safe spot to drill a very tiny hole to relieve pressure. The hole could then be taped over until the boat was back at its normal altitude when the new hole could be filled. You would have to choose a time and place with a stable temperature to fill these holes. In an emergency, go ahead and drill tiny holes to keep damage from occurring. Just know that refilling those holes in a way that keeps the wood dry will be important.
One builder currently working on his PT 11 is planning to use it almost exclusively on mountain lakes and had already researched the pressure valve question before I reached out to ask about it. Have you heard of Gortex Dots? He has generously shared his in depth research and conclusions in this PDF article. An Idea for the Vented Volume Dilemma
The standard rule should still be noted for air buoyancy tanks: no access ports or compromise of the seal unless you plan to fill the voids with flotation foam. These dedicated air tanks (forward of the mast step and the aft seat boxes) are not intended as storage and using them as such could present a serious safety risk if you flood the boat. If you truly need to modify the design to fit your intended use, how you manage that is your responsibility, so be informed, do your own research, and think 'safety first'.
Take advantage of more than 10% off both books even with faster shipping. US CUSTOMERS ONLY Get the print versions of Epoxy Basics and Scarfing Basics for $22.00 plus shipping.
Other books for family and friends can be seen on our PT Watercraft books page Including Sailor Sai Aboard Big Blue, Felted Critters, Toti Bleu; Dream of a Gypsy Wagon, Project Cheers....
If you have any difficulty with the ordering links, contact us; info(at)ptwatercraft.com
We are grateful to all of the folks out there who purchased the book and found it useful for improving the outcomes of their paint jobs when using the Interlux 2 part LP paint; Perfection(TM). This particular paint is no longer available. We have always noted how toxic it is due to the fact that it contains more Isocyanates than currently allowed for sale to non professionals.
We also learned late in the game that the hardener has a very short shelf life and was never available as a separate item.
In terms of a replacement paint, an Interlux rep was recently quoted on a forum ;
Perfection and Brightside were discontinued late 2023. Perfection was not replaced so we will no longer offer a two part topcoat here at Interlux. Brightside was replaced with Toplac Plus paint and Prekote Plus primer. It (Toplac Plus) is a new paint.
Our book Rolling Perfection was written specifically as a 'roller-only' technique for use with the Perfection paint, even though we have had customer feedback that it was useful for other 2 part LP paints from Epifanes to Alexseal. However; we cannot personally vouch for any crossover validity and with the discontinuation of the paint, we are a bit overdue in retiring the book.
We still have a few of the books in house that we can offer to ship (USA ONLY) while stocks last in case you have the paint and really want the book. or, you can contact us by email; info@ptwatercraft.com.
FYNE BOAT KITS in the UK has been producing Chesapeake Light Craft kits for over a decade. They have wanted to produce the PT 11 for equally as long but we had not figured out how to make that work.
With the collaboration of Chesapeake Light Craft, and a stipulation that almost all parts be produced on the Eastern side of the Atlantic to avoid hefty shipping costs and import duties, progress towards this goal has been made. Fyne Boat Kits has spent valuable time and energy over the last 2 years to source and procure what they need to make an authentic PT 11 kit.
It sounds like they have reached the point where they can start production of the PT 11 Nesting Dinghy kit by the end of 2024. This is a huge accomplishment and we tip our hats to owner, Phil Smith, whose dedication and persistence are truly admirable.
Click this image to reach FYNE BOAT KITS PT 11 page.
But you have to order now to make sure they have space in the truck....Click the image for details. The PT 11 will be displayed at the Chesapeake Light Craft booth on the point. Come see us!
As of today, June 3rd 2024, this PT 11 nesting dinghy is listed for sale on Facebook Marketplace. These do not come up for sale very often. This boat is nicely built, lightly used, includes sailing options and oars. For someone who can pick it up in Washington State. Click the image to visit the full listing, see more pictures and contact the owner.
In the building manual for the PT 11 it says: "The PT 11 sailing rig is designed to be light and easy to use, not to be bullet proof." In developing this rig, weight and ease of use were the biggest priorities. "Hiking (sitting on the rail and leaning out) is okay for one person to do but not two. Sailing with two and having one person hiking and the other sitting inside is okay too, just not two sitting on the rail."
The PT 11 sailing rig arrives ready to use with all of its running rigging. One small item is up to you and that is the traveler line. This is the line needed to clip your main sheet to.
You can tie a line with a little slack, using the existing holes on the transom inwale to clip your main sheet onto that. This self steering blog post shows this method.
The traveler can be be made shorter as shown below by drilling holes about 7" from the centerline (14" apart). We drilled 5/16" holes and then applied a few coats of epoxy to the walls of the holes to seal the plywood.
The traveler line can be around 3/16 diameter and be held with stopper knots underneath the inwale.
When sailing, if you feel resistance on the tiller, check to see if the rudder is completely down or if you have caught kelp or other debris. Keeping the threads in the knob clean and greased is important. The threads in the knob are brass and the pin is stainless steel so it will corrode. A bit of maintenance will insure the knob does its job and keeps the rudder down.
The outhaul (asymmetric) snap hook clips into the clew and the outhaul line should be snugged through the v-cleat on the boom:
When adventuring or in fluky winds, we carry our oars with the oarlocks in the forward sockets and the handles tucked under the bow as shown above.
If you capsize when sailing, after righting the boat, make sure the mast is fully seated in the socket before taking off again.
If you are new to dinghy sailing, it is better to start in protected waters or when there is an onshore breeze, preferably steady but not strong.
Keep your weight forward for speed, but move aft in stronger breezes and downwind sailing.
If the water is cold in your area like it is on Puget Sound, wear a wetsuit or drysuit in case you end up in the water. Hypothermia is no joke. It is always advisable to wear a life-jacket/PFD.
Learn to stall, or "park" by pointing into the wind and letting the sheet go. When the wind picks up more than you feel ready for, or you have taken water over the rail and you are feeling a little out of control, this is a good way to take stock: bail, check your rudder and daggerboard for kelp, sort out lines, and take a swig from your thermos before heading off again. The sail will flap and make noise but that is not a problem. When you are ready, reign in your sheet, and continue or head for safety.